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Large wood nest


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19 replies to this topic

#1 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 27 2016 - 3:16 AM

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Ok, here's something for Camponotus sp.

 

It's quite a large nest 250mm x 250mm.

 

Again, let me know what you think.

 

IMG_5348.jpg
IMG_5319.jpg
IMG_5248.jpg
IMG_5281.jpg
IMG_5314.jpg
IMG_5416.jpg

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#2 Offline dermy - Posted April 27 2016 - 4:09 AM

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The most important question ever asked: how do you hydrate it?



#3 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 27 2016 - 4:28 AM

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The most important question ever asked: how do you hydrate it?

 

I will be setting it up with a closed tube system rebated into the bottom.

 

The tubes will be connected to each hole. The tubes coming up in the holes will be filled with cotton to contain the water. Plug either hole to reduce the humidity.

 

It's hard to explain but I'll post some photos once I've set it up.

 

B.


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#4 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 27 2016 - 6:18 AM

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Very nice. I think if you cut some of these out of Ytong, people would really want them.



#5 Offline drtrmiller - Posted April 27 2016 - 6:55 AM

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How long did it take to machine?




byFormica® is the manufacturer of the iconic nectar feeders and Sunburst Ant Nectar.
byFormica ant products always deliver consistent performance, convenience,
and reliability, making them among the most beloved ant foods and kit enjoyed by
ant keeping enthusiasts worldwide. For more information, visit www.byFormica.com.

#6 Offline Barristan - Posted April 27 2016 - 7:14 AM

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The most important question ever asked: how do you hydrate it?

 

Most ants that do nest in dead wood don't need a moist nest at all. Just provide them an external water source.

 

I kept several species which do nest in wood:

  • Camponotus lateralis
  • Camponotus ligniperda
  • Camponotus vagus
  • Crematogaster scutellaris

I kept all of these in completely dry nests (most of the time wood but also plaster and ytong). Therefore ants that do nest in wood are one of the easiest to keep:

  • no worrying about moisturizing
  • no worrying about mold

I would never moisturize such a wooden nest, because it can distort or even rot after some time. Also intact wood won't 



#7 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 27 2016 - 10:07 PM

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How long did it take to machine?

 

Machining time is around 10min. Includes several tool changes.



#8 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 27 2016 - 10:17 PM

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Very nice. I think if you cut some of these out of Ytong, people would really want them.

 

I'll machine some up next week and let you know how I go.

 

Thanks for the feedback. :)



#9 Offline antmaniac - Posted April 27 2016 - 10:56 PM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 


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#10 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 28 2016 - 12:12 AM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 

 

That is a very interesting idea for an all in one. I might give that a go as well, but in the reverse.


Edited by Bcam43, April 28 2016 - 12:13 AM.


#11 Offline drtrmiller - Posted April 28 2016 - 6:01 AM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 

 

Mating separate nest and foraging area assemblies, in a way that is aesthetically pleasing, is among the greatest challenges to making a final product.  Lots of people can make one or the other look nice, but rarely are they able to make parts that complement each other.




byFormica® is the manufacturer of the iconic nectar feeders and Sunburst Ant Nectar.
byFormica ant products always deliver consistent performance, convenience,
and reliability, making them among the most beloved ant foods and kit enjoyed by
ant keeping enthusiasts worldwide. For more information, visit www.byFormica.com.

#12 Offline Crystals - Posted April 28 2016 - 8:15 AM

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The most important question ever asked: how do you hydrate it?

 

Most ants that do nest in dead wood don't need a moist nest at all. Just provide them an external water source.

 

I kept several species which do nest in wood:

  • Camponotus lateralis
  • Camponotus ligniperda
  • Camponotus vagus
  • Crematogaster scutellaris

I kept all of these in completely dry nests (most of the time wood but also plaster and ytong). Therefore ants that do nest in wood are one of the easiest to keep:

  • no worrying about moisturizing
  • no worrying about mold

I would never moisturize such a wooden nest, because it can distort or even rot after some time. Also intact wood won't 

 

This may apply to some species, particularly desert species. 

But some species, like those found in the boreal forest in Canada, require extra humidity or else deformities appear in the brood.  Some like Camponotus herculeanus will only store brood in a damp location, and the boreal forests are full of damp rotting wood.


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#13 Offline Barristan - Posted April 28 2016 - 1:45 PM

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But some species, like those found in the boreal forest in Canada, require extra humidity or else deformities appear in the brood.  Some like Camponotus herculeanus will only store brood in a damp location, and the boreal forests are full of damp rotting wood.

 

 

But that doesn't mean that they can't handle dry nests. I have to admit that I don't have experience with herculeanus but with ligniperda. And this species can be kept in completely dry nests. Even some tropical ants like Camponotus gigas (can't remember the new name) are best kept in dry nests. Ant Keepers tried to keep them in quite moist environment before and failed. Especially Camponotus are able to supply their brood with water from outside the nest.

 

Did you try a completely dry nest?

 

By the way I've never kept a desert ant. The species I listed aren't.


Edited by Barristan, April 28 2016 - 1:50 PM.


#14 Offline Crystals - Posted April 28 2016 - 2:21 PM

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Yes, I was on vacation for 2 weeks and the nest dried out, many of the eclosing workers afterwards has deformities in the antennae and legs.  It is in a post somewhere, Dr. Ant mentioned that it was due to low humidity causing deformities.  It is seen in some species that are adapted for a humid environment, but does not apply to all species.

The workers have no issue in a dry environment, but the developing pupae can experience problems.

 

My nests are not damp per say, but have a higher humidity than the room does.

 

 

Top right ant is an example, see the antennae and legs?  I had several like that when the batch of pupae eclosed after the nest dried out.


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#15 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 28 2016 - 3:10 PM

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Just something interesting to add: I once had a colony of Myrmecocystus mexicanus completely die off when their test tube went dry without me noticing. They had liquid feeders in the container they were in, but they still all dried out and died. These ants do live in the desert too where it is extremely dry.



#16 Offline Bcam43 - Posted April 28 2016 - 7:49 PM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 

 

Mating separate nest and foraging area assemblies, in a way that is aesthetically pleasing, is among the greatest challenges to making a final product.  Lots of people can make one or the other look nice, but rarely are they able to make parts that complement each other.

 

 

I'm assuming this was the greatest challange you faced with GroTube?



#17 Offline Barristan - Posted April 29 2016 - 3:42 AM

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Just something interesting to add: I once had a colony of Myrmecocystus mexicanus completely die off when their test tube went dry without me noticing. They had liquid feeders in the container they were in, but they still all dried out and died. These ants do live in the desert too where it is extremely dry.

 

Myrmecocystus sp. don't nest in dead wood but always in soil, don't they? I keep the nests of all my ants which nest in nature in soil moist. But for nats that live in wood in nature I made the experience that all species I kept so far could be kept in completely dry nests if you provide a external water source.

 

That is the Camponotus lateralis colony I kept:

 

IMG_4392.jpg

 

At first I moisturized the plaster nest. But they didn't want to move into it. So I let it dry out and have never moisturized it again.

 

I also did not notice any deformations. This colony was healthy and did develop well:

 

IMG_4405.jpg IMG_4410.jpg IMG_4417.jpg

 

Before they lived in the plaster nest they lived in a nest made out of floristic foam. I first moisturized it too but as with the plaster nest they didn't want to move in unless it dried out:

 

IMG_1617.jpg IMG_1781.jpg

 

Maybe herculeanus is also a little bit different because you can also find these ants in living trees not only dead wood.


Edited by Barristan, April 29 2016 - 3:44 AM.


#18 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 29 2016 - 5:54 AM

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Just something interesting to add: I once had a colony of Myrmecocystus mexicanus completely die off when their test tube went dry without me noticing. They had liquid feeders in the container they were in, but they still all dried out and died. These ants do live in the desert too where it is extremely dry.

 

Myrmecocystus sp. don't nest in dead wood but always in soil, don't they? I keep the nests of all my ants which nest in nature in soil moist. But for nats that live in wood in nature I made the experience that all species I kept so far could be kept in completely dry nests if you provide a external water source.

 

Yeah they only live in the ground. I always have wondered about the few species of Camponotus we have here that actually live in dead wood. These downed trees you find them in can't possibly have much moisture in them, so I can see what you're saying.



#19 Offline antmaniac - Posted April 30 2016 - 9:32 PM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 

 

Mating separate nest and foraging area assemblies, in a way that is aesthetically pleasing, is among the greatest challenges to making a final product.  Lots of people can make one or the other look nice, but rarely are they able to make parts that complement each other.

 

That is true. I also find the formicarium will get dirty eventually, doesn't matter how nice looking/clean it was at start. The natural tank setup with plants may still looks the same, but the chambers will be a mess eventually.



#20 Offline Bcam43 - Posted June 3 2016 - 5:44 AM

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Looks really nice on the table. However, how is the outworld set up? My design (if I am as crafty as you) would be the tunnels and chambers on the side and edge, then in the middle, there would be an outworld with water source etc. it would pack nicely as one unit on the table. 

 

Something like this?

 

http://www.formicult...-wood-nest-mkii


Edited by Bcam43, June 3 2016 - 6:32 PM.

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