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List of Species That Can Cross a Specified Barrier (Contributed to by Members)

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51 replies to this topic

#21 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted January 26 2015 - 2:51 PM

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It is up to Drew. I did not know this was on the handy links page.

#22 Offline Crystals - Posted June 13 2015 - 7:35 AM

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Here is a way to make escape even harder.  Some of the species I keep have no problem walking vertically over some barriers, but are unable to walk upside down over them.

This is a page protector that I just traced and cut to shape, then taped in.  I did put 2 piece of harder plastic in the front corners in this outworld as that is where the Camponotus liked to chew.

 

 

35048139644_5a6e139dd3_b.jpg

35499863090_d24f1033d8_b.jpg


Edited by Crystals, July 16 2017 - 6:54 AM.

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#23 Offline drtrmiller - Posted August 9 2015 - 5:37 AM

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Someone should look at the feet of ants that are poor climbers and compare them to those that can cross barriers more easily.

 

If there are common morphological factors that contribute to crossing barriers (which there almost certainly must be), then tests would be unnecessary.


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#24 Offline Foogoo - Posted August 10 2015 - 7:31 AM

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Olive Oil

Formica

I've noticed with Formica francoeuri, they're able to defeat olive oil usually within a day or two by sticking debris to it.

 

Has anyone tried petroleum jelly?


Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#25 Offline dspdrew - Posted August 10 2015 - 8:34 AM

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I see no reason to try anything if you have Fluon.


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#26 Offline Foogoo - Posted August 10 2015 - 9:34 AM

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I see no reason to try anything if you have Fluon.

They've crossed that and subsequent coatings. Probably because the nest needs a good cleaning before reapplication, but there's no way to do that with them running around (original Talus).


Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#27 Offline dspdrew - Posted August 10 2015 - 9:49 AM

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What I learned, is you can shine a hot light on the out world, making sure to heat up every inch of it, and all the ants will go back into the nest to escape the heat. At that point, you just plug the entrance, and you're free to do what you need to do.



#28 Offline Foogoo - Posted August 10 2015 - 12:59 PM

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What I learned, is you can shine a hot light on the out world, making sure to heat up every inch of it, and all the ants will go back into the nest to escape the heat. At that point, you just plug the entrance, and you're free to do what you need to do.

That's a good idea, I always forget about plugging the nest. I've found with heat though, some species will take that as an invitation to take the brood sunbathing (Crematogaster, I'm looking at you).  :warning:


Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#29 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted August 10 2015 - 3:12 PM

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What I learned, is you can shine a hot light on the out world, making sure to heat up every inch of it, and all the ants will go back into the nest to escape the heat. At that point, you just plug the entrance, and you're free to do what you need to do.

 (Crematogaster, I'm looking at you).  :warning:

 

Yeah my Crematogaster moved out of their test tube and into the out world as close to the heating cable as they could, when they were first introduced to it. :lol:



#30 Offline Vendayn - Posted August 11 2015 - 9:37 PM

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Teflon (oil based lubcricant)-

Argentine ants

Pheidole megacephala

Forelius pruinosus/mccooki

Tapinoma sessile

Dorymyrmex bicolor

Monomorium ergatogyna

 

Olive oil (works on the above ants, though must be re-applied every 2 weeks.)-

Tapinoma sessile

 

Fluon (insect-a-slip)-

Monomorium ergatogyna (they cross it easily. I applied it to the same as above species, but this species crossed every barrier I threw at them except olive oil. Probably their tiny size and they are generally amazing escape artists.)

 

To be honest, I had the best luck with olive oil and fluon. Both work differently depending on the species. Fluon works pretty much just as good with almost everything, except M. ergatogyna. And olive oil works on everything (that I've personally kept) except T. sessile.

 

Also, Argentine ants couldn't cross the olive oil for most part, but the occasional worker somehow made it past. However, the same happened with the fluon. They mostly couldn't cross, but once in a while (one or two workers every 1-2 weeks) I'd see somehow made it past. I applied the fluon exactly the same as all the other species I used it on, but some species (especially Monomorium ergatogyna) could still cross it. Its possible it was because the garage I keep ants in, is super hot and dry. There is a LOT of dust that is in the garage from my dad's workshop area...the occasional species (like M. ergatogyna who are very tiny) might take advantage of the dust.

 

Also for the olive oil. Pheidole megacephala and Monomorium ergatogyn wouldn't touch it all for 3+ months. They really hated the stuff. Fluon lasts a long time as well, but works longer (for most part) than olive oil.


Edited by Vendayn, August 11 2015 - 10:50 PM.

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#31 Offline dspdrew - Posted August 12 2015 - 6:10 AM

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What I learned, is you can shine a hot light on the out world, making sure to heat up every inch of it, and all the ants will go back into the nest to escape the heat. At that point, you just plug the entrance, and you're free to do what you need to do.

 (Crematogaster, I'm looking at you).  :warning:

 

Yeah my Crematogaster moved out of their test tube and into the out world as close to the heating cable as they could, when they were first introduced to it. :lol:

 

 

I'm not talking about warming them up. I'm talking about 135 degrees or so. No ant is going to purposely hang around in temperatures like that.



#32 Offline Foogoo - Posted August 12 2015 - 7:40 AM

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What I learned, is you can shine a hot light on the out world, making sure to heat up every inch of it, and all the ants will go back into the nest to escape the heat. At that point, you just plug the entrance, and you're free to do what you need to do.

 (Crematogaster, I'm looking at you).  :warning:

 

Yeah my Crematogaster moved out of their test tube and into the out world as close to the heating cable as they could, when they were first introduced to it. :lol:

 

 

I'm not talking about warming them up. I'm talking about 135 degrees or so. No ant is going to purposely hang around in temperatures like that.

 

:o That doesn't roast them? With a heat lamp, if the outworld is 135, I can't imagine the nest area being less than 100.


Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#33 Offline dspdrew - Posted August 12 2015 - 10:40 AM

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Not in my formicariums.



#34 Offline Here for the honeypots - Posted September 9 2015 - 9:27 PM

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Cinnamon. I hear ants won't cross cinnamon. Maybe mix it with your Vaseline ?

#35 Offline Crystals - Posted September 10 2015 - 6:18 AM

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With the species I have tried, they happily crossed vaseline.  Formica podzolica/aserva/neogagates, Camponotus herculeanus, Lasius neoniger/crypticus/alienus, and Tapinoma sessile.

 

For the ants that won't cross olive oil, I tend to use olive oil.  I like olive oil because I can easily wash it off and re-apply it.  Fluon does not work on silicone corners that I have in some of my outworlds. 

I also think the fluon I have has something wrong with it, since I can never apply it without ants being able to cross it. I find after 4 months or so, the applied fluon tends to be next to impossible to wash off. Might be part of why I like olive oil.


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#36 Offline Crystals - Posted October 9 2015 - 9:59 AM

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I am pleased to report that my Crematogaster cerasi will not cross olive oil.  :D


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#37 Offline MrPurpleB - Posted November 22 2016 - 8:02 PM

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Any suggestions for a Pogonomyrmex colony.



#38 Offline Mdrogun - Posted November 22 2016 - 10:06 PM

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Any suggestions for a Pogonomyrmex colony.

My Pogonomyrmex colony can't climb acrylic or glass. I think you should be fine. If you're really worried you can use some olive oil but I doubt it's necessary.


Edited by Mdrogun, November 22 2016 - 10:07 PM.

Currently Keeping:
Trachymyrmex septentrionalis

Pheidole pilifera

Forelius sp. (Monogynous, bicolored) "Midwestern Forelius"
Crematogaster cerasi

Pheidole bicarinata

Aphaenogaster rudis

Camponotus chromaiodes

Formica sp. (microgena species)

Nylanderia cf. arenivega


#39 Offline MichiganAnts - Posted November 23 2016 - 11:39 AM

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maybe we should clarify what type of olive oil and how you apply it? as applying different types and different ways of applying lead to different results.

 

for me i use 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oil (i do have fluon but don't use it)

 

Camponotus pennsylvanicus

 

Camponotus Nova

 

Lasius Neoniger

 

Lasius Umbratus

 

All of these have been used without a single escape.

 

I will admit that Tapinoma sessile escapes however its rare 


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#40 Offline MrPurpleB - Posted November 23 2016 - 1:29 PM

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Any suggestions for a Pogonomyrmex colony.

My Pogonomyrmex colony can't climb acrylic or glass. I think you should be fine. If you're really worried you can use some olive oil but I doubt it's necessary.

 

Thank you for the information. 







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