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#1 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 8 2016 - 2:44 PM

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Today old aquariums (2) arrive. I also bought a little bit of glass from recycling center. Today I made a mold for four elements. I drilled also 24 holes. The holes are for feeding, air, moisture meter, water pipe etc. Aquarium size in 65x34x36. Nest is 20cm high and rest is arena(about 15 cm). Glass drilling is easy and I have not ever broken glass. It is not to be afraid. The nest is easy to treat if there are a lot of holes, and no need to open the cover. Tomorrow I will pour molds full of cement, and then I give them dry. Now I have spend money: aquarium and lamp 20€, glass 7€, silicone 7€ and cement (tile grout from recycling center too) 3€. Tools I already had. At the same time, I will think species in ex aquarium. Messor, lasius Niger ...To be continued.akva.jpg lasin leikkusta.jpg ennen porausta.jpg muotti.jpg porausta.jpg valmiit reiät.jpg reikien paikat.jpg reiät suojattu.jpg

 

 

The next day, I cut the chicken wire to strengthen the mold. The thoroughly mixed grout poured into the mold. Grout need to do thinner than the manual, as we use it in different ways what you intended. Grout takes to harden sufficiently long, 5 cm thick approximately 2 weeks. the weight of the object finds from drying out, which goes on and on. finally finished brick is hard with your fingernail to get a trace, but as I say it takes time. It may be carefully machined, already wet.

I was wondering how I could get four removable wall grout? It would help if problems, such as mold and cleaning. However, it may be too difficult to build. I have not yet heard or seen mold in the grout. However, the problem can be formed, for example droppings + Humidity = mold. However, the project price is cheap, maybe about 50 €, so I choose the easier way to build a (solid formicarium).

Next, I removed the "bricks" and confirm the aquarium glass on the ground in the second glass, 8mm thick. it is because the bricks weighing a total of approximately 15-18kg. It is one of the problems in this model.

I have not yet found a way to moisturize the nest, but most likely it will happen using the empty space inside the bricks in aquarium. verkkopohja.jpg just valettu.jpg laastin sekoitusta.jpg just valettu 2.jpg

 

 

The bricks are partly dried up. Now I removed the them. I measured the length of the bricks 2 centimeters wrong, so I had to cut them to length. I also made the arena "base", which I plug the heat pad. ("D" guided :)). I installed the double bottom of the aquarium and now it should take the entire weight of bricks. Then begins the most interesting phase: design and planning of the chambers.

 

 

"bricks" are now completely dried up. In three of them I have already received chambers done. The chambers I've reformatted the drill, just ordinary wood drill bit. The last "brick" has had time to harden really hard and its design wonder. Falls to pieces? Tile grout is best treated when it is still slightly moist.

I thought and still will think, how to apply an installation? Opened or closed once and for all?

I have not seen any videos or pictures with more detail would tell formicarium age, contamination, or else. mold yes explains a lot. If I make a nest closed, so the disappointment is great if, for example glasses get dirty quickly. I have made many nests of tile grout, and there was no mold or otherwise. But my experience is only half years. Y-tong nests are apparently the best material, but the ugly :). I do not like either acryli nests, their unnatural due. Tile grout is easily formable, resistant, it should not become moldy and it gets all the color, it can be fitted stones, sand and other hard objects. But as I told, I do not have experience in keeping ants as the basic rudiments.

I also started at the same time to make another similar, but smaller aquarium

 

kuiva muotti.jpg Resize of yksi ttiili.jpg Resize of tiilet.jpg Resize of matto.jpg Resize of kaapeli.jpg

 

 

Now all the bricks are ready. Test how they fit into the aquarium. I figured even today how I can get one at a time each side use when the colony grows. That later.
Holes starts to be over 30, and I am worried about how the whole system takes the weight of the bricks. Once again, the length of the tank is about 60, a width 35 and a height 35. In the figures it appears to be smaller.

 

 

 I washed the bricks and the soak in water for a while. As a small concern is the slick surface that feels a little soap. This is probably the grout adhesive. However, pallidula colony has been many months in a similar nest, and no problems have, at least not yet. Well, for me, this is new and the future will tell what happens. I prepare the same time, indeed smaller formicarium, and I can tell you that 20 liter is much easier, faster (a lot), and nicer to build. Whatever happened again in my head at the beginning in designing this project? A year ago, my intention was to build a 150 liter rainforest terrarium, now in the living room is a 800-liter terrarium :).

I can still tell you that formicarium building is fun !! The ants I do not yet know really anything
I would prefer it to be a joke, but did not. Someday it's not.

 

muotin muotoilua.jpg Resize of muotin poraamista.jpg

 

 

I build chambers against the glass, the corridors are between chambers. This is due to glass contamination. The chambers are also about 4cm deep horizontally, in order to touch the glasses would be kept to a minimum. Although the housing is vertical, the chambers are as horizontal as possible. But everything is just a theory. Now, Good night

 

 

After thinking about build my nest probably a three-piece, leaving the rear of the brick off. space is less (I think still enough), but then I see properly inside the nest, mainly how the water chamber works. I'm afraid there formed mold, and so I can see if the need for air conditioning, otherwise a closed chamber. However, the rear portion is hidden from view. I also try to put together everything so that it can be disassembled, without dynamite :).

In spite of been looking I can not find the image or video, old formicarium. Age rarely mentioned.Resize of pesua.jpg Resize of pienempi on pienempi.jpg Resize of kaikki tiilet.jpg Resize of verkon leikkuuta.jpg Resize of Silikoni.jpg Resize of kiina.jpg Resize of valmis venttiili.jpg

 

 

Today I cleaned the aquarium and the decision of three sections remained unchanged. So the last adjustments and tile installation began. Silicone on the bottom and a brick on top. The lower parts of the bricks, I drilled holes in order to improve water absorption. In the middle of bricks, ice pool, where the water is poured. I tried to make a basin-tight, so that the water would soak through the back chambers. It was a good idea to leave one side open, now sees very well inside the nest.

I cut the mesh of air-holes and glued them my way a typical place with epoxy. mesh are not always "stailnless steel". I have tried many and many rusting with time, especially if you are dealing with, for example, salts and soil. Now the mesh that I used is from the Christmas light and I have repeatedly tested it. Too bad that it is almost out. I also use a tea strainer, they do not rust. Tea strainer is dense enough to keep the lasius Niger chamber, but not the smaller species. That later.

Today I received my order in China, which comprises inexpensive, but functional metrics. I can give you advise, that whenever Order for example thermometers, order them several at a time. It, therefore, that cheap gauges are not always reliable. But if ten meter goes about the same way, they may perhaps be trusted?

Formicarium is build now way that I can drill with luck in dismantled parts. The materials are also "washable". Next, fasten the roof, that is, in practice, the arena floor. Before that I would like to test heating mat (recommended by "D"(thank you))is it working, because it is also a "Chinese 4 euro". hmmm

Now the structure is allowed to dry in peace and I go back to work.

PS. Remember all who read this. The whole project is based on a beginner's theory. If someone, anyone wishes to advise me, even though yourself a beginner, I am very grateful.

 

tiilet valmiina 3.jpg tiilet valmiina 2.jpg tiilet valmiina 1.jpg Resize of allas.jpg

 

 

Here are a tea strainer. Drill the cup blade 35-40mm hole and tea strainer fits into that perfectly. Does not rust and lasts for handling.

 

Resize of sihti 1.jpg Resize of sihti 2.jpg

 

Good evening. Today I made the pool finish. I built a smaller pool and now it will get around the "bricks" of internal parts. Water does not need to now so much. I also made the installation of the arena floor. Now inside can no longer pass without breaking something. I also got cover holes completed and glued both tea strainers in place. Feeding into the openings I did both covers the typical way I glass waste. Next, start the landscaping of the arena, which is the most interesting phase. I've bought it already white sand. Formicaum The entire becomes pale gray, or so. The stones of the desert, because I'm going to keep everything artificial, in order to minimize mold.

The smaller the "little brother" is almost in the same line.allas.jpg kansi.jpg pikkuveli.jpg ruokinta aukkojen kannet.jpg

 

To be contiuned..

 

PS. As you read Englis is my third language.

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#2 Offline drtrmiller - Posted January 8 2016 - 3:57 PM

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You'll get more and better replies if you better organize and/or reduce the word count of your post.


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#3 Offline antmaniac - Posted January 8 2016 - 4:00 PM

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This would allow housing colony with huge population!



#4 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 8 2016 - 11:07 PM

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You'll get more and better replies if you better organize and/or reduce the word count of your post.

Yes.. The reason that the text is long is that I write for other websites and I moved so far the full story in here. From now on, the updates will be shorter.  If you mean it ?



#5 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 8 2016 - 11:10 PM

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This would allow housing colony with huge population!

How much do you assess that fits? In fact, I would estimate 10 000 (lasius Niger).



#6 Offline antmaniac - Posted January 9 2016 - 1:13 AM

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For that relative small species, probably. But keep in mind the brood with various stage also has different housing requirements. For example, humid chambers for larvae.
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#7 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 9 2016 - 11:01 AM

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For that relative small species, probably. But keep in mind the brood with various stage also has different housing requirements. For example, humid chambers for larvae.

Yes. that's way the watering is down to up. I have planning that create different moisture and humidy in chambers.



#8 Offline Okeedoke22 - Posted January 11 2016 - 7:28 AM

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Love the enthusiasm!  I can't give you any advice cause it is all over my head.  I have a feeling I will be buying most of my setups but I will try to do a simple firebrick setup when the time comes. Crystals tutorials gives me some confidence.  :)

 

Good Luck with these setups


Prenolepis Imparis

Tetramorium Sp. E

Crematogaster
Brachymyrmex Sp.

Lasius Claviger 

 


#9 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 11 2016 - 3:27 PM

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Today was finally the construction of the arena. I would have liked to make the Finnish landscape, but the avoidance of organic material it does not come now at this time possible. That is, the arena is the grout, sand, rocks and a couple of plastic plants. Arena fastener including a thermometer. If lasius Niger will be living in the nest, no meters and heating mats with no use. I still have not found a more accurate story of anyone who would have used the tile grout. That much I know tile grout that it will hold water for long. In the autumn of my build the prototypes are still moist (70%), although they have not been dampened since then. Tile grout moves water slowly and almost completely enclosed Formicarium does not evaporate the water almost at all. I am afraid, therefore, mold and try to come up with good solutions.

 

The arena has three water pipes, and yet I build a separate feeding place. Also the "Landfill" is planned. Water pipes are derived from the grocery store cardamom pipes. I smeared them with non-toxic aquarium with Vaseline, to detach.

 

The weight is a lot, but the trip to the basement is short :) So, if overwintering is necessary. Next, needs to be cleaned again and then on the last adjustments.

I thought I have not drilled the passthrough in every chamber and had to check with pen and flashlight :).

 

A smaller copy is also ready. It has been more trouble, but it is still finer.just ennen pintaa.jpg pimta matskut.jpg pinta 1.jpg pinta 2.jpg pinta 3.jpg pinta 31.jpg pinta 41.jpg pinta 43.jpg puuttuvat reiti.jpg tuuletuskanava.jpg



#10 Offline dspdrew - Posted January 12 2016 - 10:22 AM

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Pretty cool. I think the nest space to out world space ratio is way too high though. That's one of the things that I take into consideration when designing my formicariums.



#11 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 12 2016 - 1:16 PM

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Today nest arena is allowed to dry in peace .. I installed a moisture meter chamber mesh. One thing came to mind again too late. The pool could also be made into three parts, so there is no need to moisten the empty chambers in vain (increases the risk of mold). Well, I'm doing yet three of the same kind, so following it will be.

 

IMG_20160112_151941.jpg

Here you can see 2 water pipes. They are also removable without open the roof.

IMG_20160112_163327.jpg

IMG_20160112_163439.jpg

 

IMG_20160111_214141.jpg

Little one

IMG_20160110_202345.jpg

Little one

 



#12 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 12 2016 - 1:21 PM

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Pretty cool. I think the nest space to out world space ratio is way too high though. That's one of the things that I take into consideration when designing my formicariums.

Time will tell. Like i say, i am newbie and everything is just a theory. Thank you for the advice, I need them to be someday  not a newbie..

 

After all, each vertical housings are often really high? Many are still so constructed that the arena is down. What are the problems becomeif the nest is too high?


Edited by Nardimai, January 12 2016 - 1:33 PM.


#13 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 12 2016 - 9:26 PM

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I would like to get from expert users, any advice (and other enthusiasts as well). I build all the time, new nests and ideas, etc. Are important. In particular, the disadvantages of interest.
Below is a list of the construction of the nest type of pros and cons.

Good:
- Compact structure
- Treatment is simple (for example, the cover does not need to be opened as infrequently due to feeding and the addition of water)
- The arena is at the top, so it can heat and illuminate without it will greatly affect the estate itself.
- Good visibility
- Quite strerile materials (I know that it is not necessarily a good thing)
- Future models moisturizing only populated areas.
- Suitable for interior appearance (such as the aquarium, can be a living room)
- Low price, if you do not take your work into consideration ..
- Easy to create a perfect kind of humidity and temperature conditions in the various chambers.

The bad:
- Compact structure (problems with mold, moisture jumping high, poor ventilation)
- If the casing is dirty, it is really difficult to clean.
- Weigh a lot
- Techniques such as heat mat impossible to change.
- A lot of work to build (I think it's a good thing :))
- Quite sterile materials (good bacteria difficult to grow)



#14 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 22 2016 - 11:39 AM

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Today came the day when it was said, done! Many things I would have done differently, but I'm satisfied with the result. Four new (much smaller) nest is already a good rate nearing completion.

The last step was the arena, for finishing, cleaning, and various checks and adjustments. Tile grout action is a mystery, and at least the water exchange is slow. Although the bricks were dried up for over a month and seemed to dry, but the moisture in them still 70-80%. I wonder how I wonder happen in the future?

Access in the nest I now have two. The second is blocked, so long as the colony grows. It was bothered that I did not shared the pool into two parts. it would have been different in various parts of the moisture and the empty half would have been considered to be dry. I'm trying to still find a solution. Moisture meter, I didn`t put the empty nest because if the need arises, an empty part could be aired. I also taped the edges of the nest would look better in the living room. Aquarium lamp seems to work fine, even though I thought I was warming too much. From morning to night the heat in the arena was up to 27 degrees.

An empty inner space may be necessary to install a fan to prevent mold and other. Moisture is indeed a mystery and the nest at least release it slowly. the main reason is a closed space, and the second reason is the tile grout. I hope at grout is mold free. Well, other 4 nest will be better and more nice looking c015.gif Or I have 5 something else.

The nest is very likely to be single use, but if they work one time may be 25 years :).





Final price of nest:

aquarium+lamp 20€
silicone (2) 14€
glass (roof) 7€
tile grout(18kg!) 15€
tea strainer(ikea) 1,6€
hygrometer(2)(china) 2,5€
thermometer(2)(china)1,4€
plastic plant 5€
heatmat (china) 5€
mesh 5€
pipes ext. 4€

The small ones cost about 60-70€ to do in new 19 liters aquarium (25€). Tile grout only 5kg. Using same method.


Here are the last photos, and thanks to project tracking and advisors. And video too.

 

I am going to tell you what will happen when the ants arrive.

 


PS.Red film to protect chambers cut when I have time

 

 

ilmaaukot.jpg kuivunut valmis pinta.jpg mittarit.jpg putket ylhäältä.jpg ruokinta aukko.jpg sisäänkäynti.jpg valmis kammiot.jpg valmis pinta.jpg valmis pääty.jpg valmis sivua.jpg valmista pintaa.jpg valmista.jpg vesiputket.jpg vesiputki.jpg

 


 

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#15 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 22 2016 - 2:57 PM

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Hi again.. I put here slideshow which was winter project "1". Maybe somebody wonder it. It last only 1 week and now it is Pheidole Pallidula colony`s home, hibenating in my work at the basement.

 


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#16 Offline Ants4fun - Posted January 22 2016 - 6:52 PM

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You may find your out worlds to be insuffeciant for your ants. In the wild that may forage over a very large distance, so it is best to give them a lot of out world space, especially for a nest that size.

#17 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 22 2016 - 11:18 PM

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You may find your out worlds to be insuffeciant for your ants. In the wild that may forage over a very large distance, so it is best to give them a lot of out world space, especially for a nest that size.

how i can notice if the space is too little? They die? I have not seen many large arenas, like mine. You mean, it would be good if the journey to the arena would be a long? For example, the tube?

When I did my nest, i calculator that my nest is compared, for example, a very popular Large Omninest i have 5-6 times bigger chambers (area is 5-6 times bigger. Omninest have thin walls and that`s way more space in chambers= more ants), But my arena is 15 times bigger.



#18 Offline Barristan - Posted January 23 2016 - 2:23 AM

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I think your setup will be sufficient for a few years. But Pheidole pallidula colonies become very large (max colony size is estimated at 100000 workers).

 

How much space do ants need in captivity? Hölldobler writes in the book a "journey for the ants" that he kept 10000 Solenopsis invicta in a 30x20x20  cm (as far as I remember, currently I don't have access to that book) outworld with testing tubes as nest.

 

But in nature ants use a larger area for foraging. But it isn't possible to provide them a 40x40 m outworld.


Edited by Barristan, January 23 2016 - 2:23 AM.


#19 Offline Nardimai - Posted January 23 2016 - 5:55 AM

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I think your setup will be sufficient for a few years. But Pheidole pallidula colonies become very large (max colony size is estimated at 100000 workers).

 

How much space do ants need in captivity? Hölldobler writes in the book a "journey for the ants" that he kept 10000 Solenopsis invicta in a 30x20x20  cm (as far as I remember, currently I don't have access to that book) outworld with testing tubes as nest.

 

But in nature ants use a larger area for foraging. But it isn't possible to provide them a 40x40 m outworld.

Yes and i keep fish (small) in 700 litres aquarium and my poison dart frog is in 800-900 litres rainforest terrium and the frogs are 3 centimeters big and mostly kept in 100 litres. Many think at they have great space and in captivity you can say yes, but the truth is different. Biggest livingroom aquarium is 0,00001% space where they have lived in wild. Same is with my frogs. Ant are little bit fifferent than for example frogs. Frogs die fast if they don't have space and don't breed and stop eat. And now we talking living space. Of course ant have needs too, but they are more survivors and people keep them in very different nest as you know. (sorry my english again, bored to use google translation)


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#20 Offline dspdrew - Posted January 23 2016 - 6:34 AM

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Those vivariums are awesome!


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