32 replies to this topic

[dspdrew]

Not sure what resin you're using, but having to wait 5-7 days for it to cure just because it has pigments doesn't sound normal. The resin I use can be made opaque and it cures in less than a day.

[MonkeySword]

Not sure what resin you're using, but having to wait 5-7 days for it to cure just because it has pigments doesn't sound normal. The resin I use can be made opaque and it cures in less than a day.

 

What kind are you using?

[Del]

I've been using this stuff:
https://www.ebay.com...iUAAOSw5cNYFEwU

Normally cures in 12+ hours without pigment, so I'm unsure why it's taking so long when coloured

[Bryce]

Wow! I normally don't care for the look of 3d nests, but yours are fantastic. Great job.

[dspdrew]

 

Not sure what resin you're using, but having to wait 5-7 days for it to cure just because it has pigments doesn't sound normal. The resin I use can be made opaque and it cures in less than a day.

 

What kind are you using?

 

 

I use Smooth-On products.

 

You can see a lot of their epoxy resins here (https://www.reynolds...category/epoxy/).

 

I use Tarbender the most.

 

https://www.smooth-o...ARBENDER_TB.pdf

[Del]

 

 

Not sure what resin you're using, but having to wait 5-7 days for it to cure just because it has pigments doesn't sound normal. The resin I use can be made opaque and it cures in less than a day.

 

What kind are you using?

 

 

I use Smooth-On products.

 

You can see a lot of their epoxy resins here (https://www.reynolds...category/epoxy/).

 

I use Tarbender the most.

 

https://www.smooth-o...ARBENDER_TB.pdf

 

 

You are right, I must have just had a bad batch. I tried again with 2.5g pigment per 150g resin and it cured overnight with decent colouration and opacity.

[dspdrew]

If you add too much pigment it can definitely keep the resin from curing. I added way too much once, and it never fully hardened.

[Del]

I've been adding various colonies to these nests to test them out with a variety of ant genera. Generally seems to be going ok.

So far Pheidole, Rhytidoponera, Camponotus, Polyrhachis, Iridomyrmex, Notoncus, and Opisthopsis all seem to be doing well. My Aphaenogaster longiceps colony seems to prefer their brood in piles in the outworld rather than inside a nest 4cm away. Colobopsis do not seem to be having fun, and are huddled in a small ball towards the wall of the nest. It could be cold, but I also think they prefer much more confined nesting areas.

 

In order: Iridomyrmex purpureus, Camponotus aeneopilosus, Opisthopsis sp and Colobopsis sp

 

  

 

[Del]

I've been working away on these since the last post and now have a range of five models for various sized species. I've also perfected the hydration system so that one nest can be configured to be wetter or drier depending on what you are housing. I've been keeping everything from Pheidole to Myrmecia in this way.

In other news I have been selling these and have started a thread in the marketplace subforum if anyone is interested: http://www.formicult...sin-formicaria/

 

And some more pictures!
 

[Jonathan21700]

Now that's a good formicarium!  I was thinking about something very similar just with grout but I can't find such square or round acrylic containers anywhere here.

Edited by Jonathan21700, May 22 2018 - 1:34 PM.

[Del]

These clear containers are custom made, just some acrylic pieces cut then bonded together. It doesn't look as nice as injection moulded boxes like the AMAC ones, but I can get them pretty close to the exact dimensions I want them

Edited by Del, October 22 2019 - 2:57 PM.

[Del]

So the first series of these nests seems to have worked well. I'm glad to have heard other people saying they liked using them, and I still have colonies living in them after a couple of years. However there were a few issues with the design that I was not happy with, or that users brought to my attention. Among them:

 

1. Resin is expensive, easy to screw up and labour intensive to use

2. Lifting the nest body off to add water can be inconvenient

3. Some kind of shade or cover is needed

4. Hydration system could be improved

 

The latest version is digitally sculpted, 3D printed and then cast in ABS. This avoids the problems with epoxy resin and allows me to produce them more affordably. It also means that I can add smaller details to the design, in this case a hydration hole that can be used with a syringe. Hydration fittings have been redesigned too, and now hold sponge against the tile piece. 

 

Overall I think this iteration is much more robust and reliable, and still seems to house ants just as successfully. 

 

Currently these nests are available with a translucent cover to let in small amounts of light. I've found acclimatising my colonies to moderate light levels allows me to look at them more frequently with less stress. However 3D printing can be quite slow and the failure rate is high for flat parts like this. It may be replaced with some laser cut red acrylic in the future

Edited by Del, October 10 2019 - 11:13 PM.

[Canadant]

Those are gorgeous! I end up feeling so untalented on these boards some days.

Nice ants too!