12 replies to this topic

[MrUrrutia]

Hello guys!!

As we get closer to the spring-summer time and Nuptial Flying time for ants here I have returned to the task of working on my first formicarium...

It will be a 3d printed one, I will be using PLA and maybe move to ABS for the second generation (if I make it all the way to needed!), I usually design my projects on sections that can be assambled at the end, on that way instead of having a 10 hour print for one big solid object and found that half of the way something happened and its a waste I can readjust parts for better fitting and corect errors.

Normally I use DAP RapidFuse and obtained good bonding, do you think that if I let it cure, vent and wash the whole assemble will be any trouble (toxic trouble!) for ants?

It will not be put to use immediately so it should have enought time to cure and release gases!

Edited by MrUrrutia, January 8 2017 - 8:30 AM.

[Connectimyrmex]

I prefer to not use glue, I just tape everything together..

 

I would think that any nontoxic glue would work, as long as it doesn't stay too sticky after you use it.

[MrUrrutia]

I don't think that super glue will be toxic after it has dried, and that its one of it's qualities "quick dry"!

With enough time to fully ventilate I'm guessing it will be OK

[AntsBrazil]

Normally the most used ones are 2 part epoxy and aquarium silicone. 

[MrUrrutia]

I was thinking about using epoxy (JB weld)... The only downside its how messy can become if you not take your time!

My design breaks on 6 basic parts: main chamber, 4 ports for expansion/connections, and a moisture chamber...

[AntsBrazil]

If you want to separate the parts after using it I would use aquarium silicone, epoxy could make things difficult, but the silicone isn't that strong for gluing things so you would need to be careful.

[MrUrrutia]

I was thinking about silicone for the top part (acrylic or glass) and epoxy for the unions between the container with the cotton/sponge for moisture so the whole thing stay watertight...

 

We still have a couple of months ahead to try to catch a queen and if I'm successful another couple more before they will be ready to move to the formicarium so there is enough time to finish the details of design and tests of the parts.

 

I will post some pictures of the basic ideas as soon as I can, thanks for the input!!!

[Kevin]

Silicone is probably going to be more watertight than epoxy will ever be. There is a reason they call it aquarium silicone, you know.

 

Also assuming you have them connect in some fashion like a triangle, else silicone would most likely be insufficient to hold the formicarium together. You should also incorporate some kind of pattern on the sides of the formicarium pieces so the match up correctly and a few indents for the adhesive material you choose to hook into. I recommend something like a "wavey-like" curve going through the center of the two halfs, extruding and intruding into the plastic for a lock, and add a few triangles, fat side facing inwards, for the adhesive material to seep into thus not only relying on the bond on a flat surface, but the adhesive material itself.

 

Modular formicariums are hard to make for this exact reason. Ants will always find a way out, and a small crack in a formicarium will allow grip for chewing or small species to escape. 

 

 

You can see the indents and the little bumps that would fit into a negative model of those "waves" to insure a good connection, and those triangles would allow for the adhesive to sink in, cure, and not slip out, because a bigger solid can not fit through of a smaller solid in most cases.

 

Of course, you should take more time into something like this. I just threw up a quick AutoCad drawing.

 

 

I really should get a like for this. I put too much effort in it  .

Edited by Kevin, January 8 2017 - 3:44 PM.

[MrUrrutia]

The parts that need to get joint at the end are designed with lap joint, rabbet or dovetail unions, so they lock more like a puzzle between each other... So far I have use the same style of joint for a couple of projects, including a camera holder for a gimbal on my phantom drone and all have hold really good!!!!

[Kevin]

The parts that need to get joint at the end are designed with lap joint, rabbet or dovetail unions, so they lock more like a puzzle between each other... So far I have use the same style of joint for a couple of projects, including a camera holder for a gimbal on my phantom drone and all have hold really good!!!!

I would say a dovetail union is the best option. A half lap or similar will not allow the perfect fit for it to be even.

[MrUrrutia]

https://goo.gl/photo...7asFYS4MwB7igP9

[Kevin]

What are those holes for? 

[MrUrrutia]

Kind of wet cotton container, I was just printing the part to see how good the grid was going to be, each hole is 1mm...