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What gives Camponotus?


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#1 Offline The530Ski - Posted September 26 2022 - 10:34 AM

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UGH! I’m not sure what I'm doing wrong. I’ve attempted keeping Camponotus sansabeanus (in a TH formicarium) and currently I have a small Camponotus pennsylvanicus colony (Q+5 workers) in a Wakooshi Venus and the same thing is happening as it did with my attempted sansabeanus colony. They hardly ever eat and the workers seem to die off until the queen is all that's left.

 

I understand that Camponotus are slow growing but are they hard to get established too?

 



#2 Offline ANTdrew - Posted September 26 2022 - 10:47 AM

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Someone posts a question like this every 10-14 days. I don’t think Camponotus are really worth trying to keep in captivity, other than a few species.
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#3 Offline NicholasP - Posted September 26 2022 - 11:22 AM

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Someone posts a question like this every 10-14 days. I don’t think Camponotus are really worth trying to keep in captivity, other than a few species.

They certainly are worth it. Just people don't seem to give proper care.


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#4 Offline PurdueEntomology - Posted September 26 2022 - 11:51 AM

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I certainly have not been having any issues with various species.  


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#5 Offline ANTdrew - Posted September 26 2022 - 12:04 PM

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I’m just noting a trend here. My C. nearcticus are doing great with standard care.
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"The ants are a people not strong, yet they prepare their meat in the summer." Prov. 30:25
Keep ordinary ants in extraordinary ways.

#6 Offline UtahAnts - Posted September 26 2022 - 12:42 PM

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Camponotus is a large genus, and each species has its own needs; some camponotus are exclusively wood dwelling, while others are primarily ground dwelling for instance. Different species prefer different nesting environments and formicarium types. I don't think there is a "one nest works for all species" formicarium for Camponotus, unless you consider vivariums. Not to mention the range of natural microfauna unique to each species, which is largely absent in captive environments. Because of this, specifying natural care to each species is something that would definitetly help lower mortality rates.
 
Since no ant keeper keeps ants the same way (ie. feeding the same food from the exact same sources), saying you keep a range of species well is quite subjective, although as has been pointed out, there are some species which seem to be more suited for captivity in general.

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#7 Offline Serafine - Posted September 26 2022 - 1:47 PM

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1. Use a test tube setup. People will tell you "oh, it's fine, Camponotus don't need much humidity", they're wrong. Humidity has never killed a colony and aside from some rare species (Camponotus vagus which can live just fine in bone dry nests) most of them do prefer decent humidity. Also many Camponotus species seem to be very clean, so there's less risk of mold growth.

 

2. Offer a BROAD diet. If available catch wild (spiders and flies are best), don't use just mealworms from the pet shop.

Camponotus seem to be more demanding in their diet than most other ants.


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#8 Offline T.C. - Posted September 26 2022 - 2:37 PM

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1. Use a test tube setup. People will tell you "oh, it's fine, Camponotus don't need much humidity", they're wrong. Humidity has never killed a colony and aside from some rare species (Camponotus vagus which can live just fine in bone dry nests) most of them do prefer decent humidity. Also many Camponotus species seem to be very clean, so there's less risk of mold growth.
 
2. Offer a BROAD diet. If available catch wild (spiders and flies are best), don't use just mealworms from the pet shop.
Camponotus seem to be more demanding in their diet than most other ants.


This^ This^ and This^ I feed all my ants wild caught flies and spiders. (Boil them before feeding) I never used to years ago, but since I started my colonies reach several hundred workers by year two. As well I give them the option of maple syrup or honey. Honey seems to be preferred.
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#9 Offline Serafine - Posted September 26 2022 - 2:59 PM

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Well, the thing with feeding wild is it only really works with small colonies. There's no way i'm gonna be able to feed my 10.000+ worker Camponotus colony from wild catches.

During summer i do catch a ton of flies with an electric fly swatter but even that's not enough.

If you want to keep Camponotus in the long run you'd better warm up the prospect of keeping a roach breeding colony.


Edited by Serafine, September 26 2022 - 3:13 PM.

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#10 Offline ANTdrew - Posted September 26 2022 - 3:15 PM

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I agree. All my colonies get a lot of wold caught crickets, earwigs, flies, spiders, and termites. A varied diet is essential for success with Camponotus. I’d even go so far as to suggest feeding them dead worker Camponotus from wild colonies as a way to boost their stomach flora.
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#11 Offline Lazarus - Posted September 26 2022 - 3:26 PM

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Someone posts a question like this every 10-14 days. I don’t think Camponotus are really worth trying to keep in captivity, other than a few species.

While their colonies are slow growing, I find Camponotus the easiest to raise. The only trend I'm seeing now is that after the 2nd or third year the colonies seem to start dying off, but I'm fairly certain that is because in my case I have not had the chance to have them move into cleaner setups.


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#12 Offline ANTdrew - Posted September 26 2022 - 5:27 PM

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You keep novaeboracensis, which seems to be one of the exceptions that actually do well in captivity.

Edited by ANTdrew, September 26 2022 - 5:28 PM.

"The ants are a people not strong, yet they prepare their meat in the summer." Prov. 30:25
Keep ordinary ants in extraordinary ways.

#13 Offline DevinTheAntKeeper - Posted September 26 2022 - 8:45 PM

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Someone posts a question like this every 10-14 days. I don’t think Camponotus are really worth trying to keep in captivity, other than a few species.

IDK man



#14 Offline T.C. - Posted September 26 2022 - 9:11 PM

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Someone posts a question like this every 10-14 days. I don’t think Camponotus are really worth trying to keep in captivity, other than a few species.

While their colonies are slow growing, I find Camponotus the easiest to raise. The only trend I'm seeing now is that after the 2nd or third year the colonies seem to start dying off, but I'm fairly certain that is because in my case I have not had the chance to have them move into cleaner setups.

 

 

You have to keep in mind that around year 3, some of the first generation workers naturally start to die but are replaced by the population boom that also happens around that time.


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#15 Offline Serafine - Posted September 27 2022 - 2:17 AM

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From my observations In almost all cases when someone has trouble with Camponotus they're 1) not in a test tube setup or 2) not fed properly.

 

Another big issue is disturbance, founding/small Camponotus colonies want to be left alone and not having looked into their nest every day.


Edited by Serafine, September 27 2022 - 2:18 AM.

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#16 Offline Ants_Dakota - Posted September 27 2022 - 5:06 AM

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I agree. All my colonies get a lot of wold caught crickets, earwigs, flies, spiders, and termites. A varied diet is essential for success with Camponotus. I’d even go so far as to suggest feeding them dead worker Camponotus from wild colonies as a way to boost their stomach flora.

i have heard this as well


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#17 Offline PurdueEntomology - Posted September 29 2022 - 7:28 AM

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1. Use a test tube setup. People will tell you "oh, it's fine, Camponotus don't need much humidity", they're wrong. Humidity has never killed a colony and aside from some rare species (Camponotus vagus which can live just fine in bone dry nests) most of them do prefer decent humidity. Also many Camponotus species seem to be very clean, so there's less risk of mold growth.

 

2. Offer a BROAD diet. If available catch wild (spiders and flies are best), don't use just mealworms from the pet shop.

Camponotus seem to be more demanding in their diet than most other ants.

I concur on these two points.  I have found that a dilute honey/water liquid is better carbohydrate source than sugar water for the various omnivorous genera/species I keep.  I also offer two species of fruit flies, dubia roaches, crickets, meal worms and springtails to mix up the protein sources, all of which I culture. I also give occasional game bird 30% protein starter which many species accept.  And finally, left over cat food from the Fancy Feast Seafood Classics (we have a high maintenance cat).  Upshot, variation, variation, variation. 


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#18 Offline NicholasP - Posted September 29 2022 - 10:18 AM

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1. Use a test tube setup. People will tell you "oh, it's fine, Camponotus don't need much humidity", they're wrong. Humidity has never killed a colony and aside from some rare species (Camponotus vagus which can live just fine in bone dry nests) most of them do prefer decent humidity. Also many Camponotus species seem to be very clean, so there's less risk of mold growth.

 

2. Offer a BROAD diet. If available catch wild (spiders and flies are best), don't use just mealworms from the pet shop.

Camponotus seem to be more demanding in their diet than most other ants.

I concur on these two points.  I have found that a dilute honey/water liquid is better carbohydrate source than sugar water for the various omnivorous genera/species I keep.  I also offer two species of fruit flies, dubia roaches, crickets, meal worms and springtails to mix up the protein sources, all of which I culture. I also give occasional game bird 30% protein starter which many species accept.  And finally, left over cat food from the Fancy Feast Seafood Classics (we have a high maintenance cat).  Upshot, variation, variation, variation. 

 

Interesting! I'm about to hibernate my C. novaeboracensis that I caught this year and have only fed the colony flightless fruit flies, flying fruit flies, crickets, and sugar water. Could I feed them a larger variety of food and they'd do much better off?



#19 Offline PurdueEntomology - Posted September 29 2022 - 11:34 PM

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1. Use a test tube setup. People will tell you "oh, it's fine, Camponotus don't need much humidity", they're wrong. Humidity has never killed a colony and aside from some rare species (Camponotus vagus which can live just fine in bone dry nests) most of them do prefer decent humidity. Also many Camponotus species seem to be very clean, so there's less risk of mold growth.

 

2. Offer a BROAD diet. If available catch wild (spiders and flies are best), don't use just mealworms from the pet shop.

Camponotus seem to be more demanding in their diet than most other ants.

I concur on these two points.  I have found that a dilute honey/water liquid is better carbohydrate source than sugar water for the various omnivorous genera/species I keep.  I also offer two species of fruit flies, dubia roaches, crickets, meal worms and springtails to mix up the protein sources, all of which I culture. I also give occasional game bird 30% protein starter which many species accept.  And finally, left over cat food from the Fancy Feast Seafood Classics (we have a high maintenance cat).  Upshot, variation, variation, variation. 

 

Interesting! I'm about to hibernate my C. novaeboracensis that I caught this year and have only fed the colony flightless fruit flies, flying fruit flies, crickets, and sugar water. Could I feed them a larger variety of food and they'd do much better off?

 

I would say anytime you can offer variety the ants should be 'healthier' and 'stronger' if they are omnivores.



#20 Offline MrPurpleB - Posted September 29 2022 - 11:55 PM

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I have mostly fed my Camponotus mealworms, might explain their slow growth. Also took them off their heating cable last year. I don't measure time and growth, they just feel slow. Not saying that is a bad thing I don't mind it too much.






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