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little tips for individual species/subgenera/genera/subfamilies


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#1 Offline Canadian anter - Posted November 17 2016 - 2:53 AM

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In this thread are going little tips that apply for individual species, genera,subfamilies,subgenera, subspecies etc.


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#2 Offline Canadian anter - Posted November 17 2016 - 2:59 AM

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Ponera pennsylvanica need small amounts of food during hibernation.

Aphaenogaster and Formica tend to be exspecially sensitive to light

Most ant genera can merge if colonies are in a close vicinity, creating a pleometrophic or polygyne colony

exceptions include tribes Camponotini, Formicini(sometimes)and most ponerines


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#3 Offline Alabama Anter - Posted November 17 2016 - 4:49 AM

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Solenopsis invicta:
Polygynous: For founding stages but can be polygynous in cases
Cool/intersecting behavior: Very explosive and can make a living raft when their nest is under water.

YJK


#4 Offline Kevin - Posted November 17 2016 - 2:02 PM

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I think this would be useful in a graph, similar to the ant mating chart layout.


Hit "Like This" if it helped.


#5 Offline Serafine - Posted November 17 2016 - 2:28 PM

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Solenopsis in general:

- They multiply VERY fast, so be prepared. Better buy additional nesting space before you need it.

- They are escape artists so keep your setup safe. The bigger species are semi-nomadic and take any good opportunity to brake loose, often with the entire colony.

- Solenpsis have stinger and the larger ones (S. geminata, S. invicta) hurt like hell. Wear surgical gloves when handling them.

- Some species like Solenopsis fugax are incredibly tiny (workers can be less than 1mm) and are able to squeeze through any gap. You need to seal everything with Fluon and Silicone to keep them contained.

- Can be polygynous during founding but it is NOT advised to try this in a formicarium as usually all queens but one are killed by the workers and even the surviving queen may get injured or even die. Solenopsis fugax may accept lone queens at a later stage.

 

Camponotus

- BIG ants (especially the majors/supermajors), make sure your tubing is big enough for them to pass.

- They lay eggs in batches. If your queens doesn't lay eggs for several weeks or even months this is entirely normal.

- Usually dry-loving, so don't over-hydrate (hydration gradient is very important for these ants)

- They have dry-resistant cocooned pupae and will often store these pupae separate from eggs/larvae in warmer dryer places, so give them enough space, preferably in the form of a heated satellite nest.

- Grow slow (egg to worker takes 2 months) especially at the start, population explosion usually in year 3.

- Do NOT put them into a formicarium before they reach a minimum of 20-50 workers (the colony might die due to an inability of controlling nest moisture). This is a rule for all ants however due to the low grow speed of Camponotus colonies this may take up to TWO YEARS. Just leave them in a test tube (placed in an outworld if needed) for the time being.

 

Messor

- BIG ants (especially the majors/supermajors), make sure your tubing is big enough for them to pass.

- Do not react to sugar, they eat seeds and insects.

- Need a dry nest section where they can store seeds (because seeds + moisture = germination and mold).

- Are prone to mold so keep any eye on that.

- Lay eggs in batches like Camponotus.

- Grow slow (egg to worker takes ~1,5-2 months) especially at the start.


Edited by Serafine, November 17 2016 - 11:00 PM.

We should respect all forms of consciousness. The body is just a vessel, a mere hull.

Welcome to Lazy Tube - My Camponotus Journal


#6 Offline Canadian anter - Posted November 17 2016 - 2:45 PM

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Myrmica make sure to put food that is much smaller than themselves;they are one of the Most stupid ants in the world
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