33 replies to this topic

[Elraen]

Hi guys,

 

I'm trying to make a new formicarium for my Lasius Niger colony. 

 

 

 

I have always been taking care of my ants in watered test tubes so before i hadn't any hydration problem. But as you can see, i have to think about it. 

 

What should i do ? I though that i should create a hole on the right side of the nest in order to be able to drop water with syringe in to the rooms. ( half of the right parts ).

 

Is it enough for hydration ? And also how many times should i drop water daily ? 

 

Its really important for finishing my project. 

[Crystals]

Good start so far. 

 

Some questions though

1. Is that block going to fit inside the plastic container, or is the container the foraging area?

2. What is the block made out of?  For example firebrick or ytong tend to dry out faster than grout.

 

Personally, if I had that in my hands, I would get some rubber spray and spray the top, back and bottom to minimize evaporation while allowing good air flow.

For a water tunnel, you have several options.  You could carve a separate water tunnel and silicone glass in front of it (opening on top for easy watering).  You could do it on either or both sides.

Another option would be to take a drill bit and drill a long hole hole down at an angle on both sides of the nest.

 

Anything that will trap water in or against the block until it absorbs will work.

 

How often it needs to be watered depends on quite a few factors such as how much you water at one time, humidity in the house, heat, etc.

 

This is one of my vertical nests with the watering tunnel in the middle.  Just ensure that the border of the water tunnel is siliconed so it doesn't leak into the tunnels.

[Elraen]

Answers :

 

1) Yeah that is outworld.

2) Ytong.

 

For a water tunnel, you have several options.  You could carve a separate water tunnel and silicone glass in front of it (opening on top for easy watering).This method is not good for design i think. Maybe it works better than the second way but i really do not like it.

 

Another option would be to take a drill bit and drill a long hole hole down at an angle on both sides of the nest. This is exactly what i mean.

 

 

Like this right ?

 

How often it needs to be watered depends on quite a few factors such as how much you water at one time humidity in the house, heat, etc.

 

Heat : 25-30 C

Humidity : Average : %30-35 i think..

 

 

Edit : isn't robber spray Toxic ?

Edited by Elraen, March 29 2015 - 5:37 PM.

[antmaniac]

Have you consider carve out some space in the back corner and soak the corner in a container? Then put a cut out lid to cover as much area as possible to minimise the evaporation. The water will soak into the brick, assuming it is a Ytong brick. Indoor you will only need to refill it once per month.

[Elraen]

Have you consider carve out some space in the back corner and soak the corner in a container? Then put a cut out lid to cover as much area as possible to minimise the evaporation. The water will soak into the brick, assuming it is a Ytong brick. Indoor you will only need to refill it once per month.

 

Hmm, can you send me a picture of the method that you suggested ? isn't ytong going to absorb water when we fill in the carved hole ?

[antmaniac]

Unfortunately I can't show you the photos right now. I can show you my setup after I take photos on Wednesday. However, you can see my journal to get a feel of how it is done. It is true that the Ytong will absorb the water through the holes. But there is a problem, the water will going downward, which will make a mess on your table if you put in too much water and then it will dry out quickly.

 

Below is a photo of Ytong soaking up the water.

 

The darker area in below photo is the hydrated part of the Ytong.

 

Edited by antmaniac, March 29 2015 - 7:06 PM.

[Crystals]

Yes, that would work as long as it doesn't break through the back of the ants tunnels.  I prefer to carve a second "tunnel" that is not connected to the ones the ants are in.  On the front or side.  Make it vertical, so you can add water in the top and it has several centimeters to accumulate and soak in.  It can go behind the same piece of glass that is going to cover your tunnels, with the opening touching the top edge so there is no need to drill the glass.  But that is just my preference.

 

Depends on the rubber spray.  Once cured most are fine.  I use a rubber rock guard meant for cars.  It does take several days to fully cure.

[antmaniac]

Yes, you do have to be careful when carve out the back corner. Or you can try Crystal's method to trap water. Although I think at this size of Ytong brick, it will absorb and spread the water very fast. 

[Elraen]

 

I would like to carve the parts that i marked as 'L' for 4 cm / 5 cm towards the base in order to fill it with water, would it be effective ? I would like to create hyrdation system without messing with it appeal. However i don't want to refill the water daily but I'm ok with refilling it every 4-5 days. To some up, if this 'L' was to be carved would it meet my requierments ? If not, any advice on it ? thanks

[Crystals]

If you carved the "L" about 3-5cm deep it should easily be sufficient.

 

Ytong is known to absorb water quickly, so the tunnel is just to hold the water until is quickly soaks in.  Most people just don't like to slowly drip in water, which is why we make the water tunnels.  That one will work fine.

 

On a side note, you may wish to drill a second small hole on the other side in case you want to make the other side more humid.

 

But yes, that will work nicely. 

 

The Ytong I had always dried out pretty quick.  You will have to search for some methods to reduce evaporation.

One method I used with a large block of firebrick was to sit the nest in a fancy shallow tray that always held about 2cm of water.  Used in conjunction with a bi-weekly watering from the top it worked fine.

 

Another way to reduce evaporation is to silicone a plastic page protector over the back, sides, and on the bottom.

[Elraen]

Thanks for your advice.

 

So now, i'm gonna carve ''L'' part right now. Actually, i don't wanna use a large block of firebrick or something like that because of formicarium design. But the second method is fine for me.. ( plastic page protector for sides and bottom. )

 

After i'm done with the 'L' part i'm gonna share new photos of my formicarium. We will check it again

[Elraen]

I have one more question, I used to paint my ytong blocks with tea. I boil the tea with water in big stewpot and i put the ytong in it. And than it looks great. Is it a good method ? Non-toxic bla bla. ? In my country we can't find any non toxic materials. that's why i found this method for painting ..

Edited by Elraen, March 30 2015 - 10:05 AM.

[Crystals]

Tea staining is common.  Just let it air out until it is completely dry, then soak it in plain water for a day, then let it dry completely again.  Then hydrate normally.

I advise testing the test staining color first on some spare pieces.  Sometimes the way to color comes out is... unexpected...

 

I also know people who boiled walnut shells for a nice dark color.  The darker the color, the harder it might be to see the ants.  So check it every minute or so to ensure it doesn't get too dark for what you want.

[Elraen]

''L'' done, what do you think ?

 

 

 

I have lots of walnut shells like these :  Hmm hmm, its same boiling method of tea type right ? 

 

Edited by Elraen, March 30 2015 - 12:52 PM.

[Crystals]

Looks good. 

 

Yes, regular boiling method.  I hear it takes a bit longer for the walnut to leech the dyes out.  Just a light boil until the water has gotten darker.  Barely submerge the walnuts, so there isn't too much excess water.

[Elraen]

I got it, thanks. I'm gonna try with walnut than.

 

So now, my 'L' done. Front glass is done. Outworld connection done.

 

Test tube connection is done too. 

 

 

Next step ;

 

- Try to find some plastic page protectors for back, sides and bottom. I'm gonna use aquarium slicon for all of them. But before i have to finish painting i think..

[Crystals]

One thing I would add is a second tubing connection on the side.  Stuff it with cotton for now, but it will be priceless when it comes to moving the colony into a bigger nest in the future.

 

Otherwise, it looks great!

 

Can't wait to see the ants inside of it. 

Just ensure you give the silicone at least 48 hours to dry.

[antmaniac]

Rubber bands work fine indoor. Although they degrade very easily, especially when in contact with water.

Edited by antmaniac, March 30 2015 - 6:53 PM.

[Jonathan21700]

Pretty cool! Thank you about the idea for the rubber bands because I don't have any aquarium silicone. What kind of ants are you going to put in there?

[Elraen]

One thing I would add is a second tubing connection on the side.  Stuff it with cotton for now, but it will be priceless when it comes to moving the colony into a bigger nest in the future.

 

Otherwise, it looks great!

 

Can't wait to see the ants inside of it. 

Just ensure you give the silicone at least 48 hours to dry.

 

Can't wait too Thanks Crystal.

 

Rubber bands work fine indoor. Although they degrade very easily, especially when in contact with water.

 

Can you explain with another words please ? I didn't understand