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Mosses and ants


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39 replies to this topic

#1 Offline dean_k - Posted November 8 2014 - 12:15 PM

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Has anyone done or thought about adding moss bed to formicarium?

 

It would give a nice feel and look to the outworld, I thought.



#2 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 8 2014 - 12:21 PM

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They would probably nest in it.



#3 Offline dermy - Posted November 8 2014 - 2:07 PM

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Yeah the issue is nesting, I mean who could resist something that stays moist for so long and can easily be broken up and moved around ;)



#4 Offline dean_k - Posted November 8 2014 - 2:15 PM

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Moss doesn't need much soil. A thin layer would do it. And if rock moss is used, virtually no soil at all.

 

I am thinking of using mosses on formicarium like the Pinnacle from Tarhell ants.



#5 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 8 2014 - 2:40 PM

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The ants would tear it up and make chambers out of it.



#6 Offline dermy - Posted November 8 2014 - 2:46 PM

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Or just figure out a way to hide inside it or under it. Ants will do anything to hide from you!



#7 Offline Crystals - Posted November 8 2014 - 8:04 PM

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If you had larger ants and a thin layer of live moss it might work.

The problem is that it can be harder to grow live moss without any mold problems than one may think.  Simply try growing live moss in a container just to see what I mean.  And then about trying to do it with live ants in there as well.  :D

One day once my colonies get larger I might try adding live plants and stuff, but my species are notorious for needing the extra heat I supply to the formicarium and being reluctant to move.


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#8 Offline dspdrew - Posted November 8 2014 - 8:21 PM

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I grow sphagnum moss, and have never had problems with fungus. Sphagnum moss is supposedly anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.



#9 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 8 2014 - 9:08 PM

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I grow sphagnum moss, and have never had problems with fungus. Sphagnum moss is supposedly anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.

That may be a good natural fungicide then... :thinking:



#10 Offline drtrmiller - Posted November 9 2014 - 4:47 PM

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So far everyone here has been speculating without any practical experience having added moss to a formicarium.

 

I have been doing so for several months now, and so I can provide more practical insight.

 

It must first be noted that there are a wide variety of mosses, encompassing a variety of growing conditions, from those that must remain moist, to those that must dry out between waterings.  So far, I've observed that mosses need relatively strong UV lighting, and most indoor lighting or artificial lighting not meant for growing plants is just too dim to stimulate proper growth.

 

It is true that most mosses don't require too much substrate, since they generally only use "roots" for support (technically, rhizoids), and get water and nutrients through the foliage and whole plant.  Also worth noting is that you can only use RO or distilled water—chlorinated or hard water is death to mosses.

 

Beyond actually cultivating the moss indoors, which is done by simply understanding and recreating optimal growing conditions, probably the most important thing is making it work with your ants.  Generally, ants that nest in soil will make substrate from any available material, or may be able to hide a small nest in the least amount of moss.  Larger ants are far easier to plan a naturalistic habitat that includes mosses, as well as ordinary vascular plants, since their nesting options are more limited.

 

With most any THA formicarium, you will simply not have enough room to grow even the most basic plants over the long term.  You'll need at least a 5-, and preferably a 10-gallon aquarium or similar container, with grow lighting and an integrated misting system, since you will be lacking substrate, which would normally reserve and release moisture.

 

I start by laying down lightweight perlite to form a terrain or false bottom.  I then add a thin layer of hard gypsum cement on top of the perlite, and some substrate on top of the wet plaster to give the illusion of solid terrain.  Any loose substrate is vacuumed up after the plaster cures, so you essentially have an almost waterproof, hard floor that the ants can not chew through.  Since you added perlite rather than casting a solid block of plaster, the whole thing is very light.  From there, you can add depth by adding some accent pieces—I like to use mopani wood pieces found at the pet shop.  

 

I add a backdrop by sculpting ledges and shapes out of clay, and repeating the plaster/substrate combo on top of that.  You can layer different substrates to the backdrop to give the illusion of different strata in the earth.

 

Some plants I've found to work well are Baby Tears, Creeping Fig, Cryptanthus acaulis (a bromeliad), and Cypress Spikemoss (if kept absolutely constantly moist and humid).  I'm sure there are many, many more plants that would work in a formicarium.  It just depends how you set it up and maintain it.  Just keep in mind that it is a lot more work to maintain any kind of formicarium that has plants, and requires a ton of planning and mechanical escape prevention techniques (such as custom lids) so you don't end up with a mess.

 

I thought going into designing these planted foraging areas that it would be relatively simple.  It most definitely is not.

 

You've probably seen my little planted outworld: http://youtu.be/LE8ssXB1Gog?t=2m


Edited by drtrmiller, November 9 2014 - 4:51 PM.

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#11 Offline dean_k - Posted November 9 2014 - 5:00 PM

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A planted outworld is always going to be hard. And if you are willing to go that far, you could even create a small ecosystem.

 

Well, the anting season is off for Canadians and I am playing with ideas. I know I want a carpenter ant (Reserved one from Crystals) simply due to their much bigger size. Their bigger size makes it easier for planted outworld although having just one queen is like putting all eggs into one basket, so I am looking into other sp that's polygyny and bigger than Myrmica.

 

I got like 5 months to fool around. I've got nothing better to do. :D



#12 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 9 2014 - 6:10 PM

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Why spend money on them when they fly in like 4 months anyways?



#13 Offline dean_k - Posted November 9 2014 - 6:19 PM

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I get too tired after work (6pm) and don't tend to go out. And unfortunately, my family members aren't interested in ants, either.



#14 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 9 2014 - 6:25 PM

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But you can find them around your home too. :P



#15 Offline dean_k - Posted November 9 2014 - 6:28 PM

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My house is new. It's less than a year old. The whole area has been pretty much dug upside down around here for new roads and new house plots. There is a park which I assume where Lasius I caught came from, but Lasius isn't what I am interested in.


Edited by dean_k, November 9 2014 - 6:34 PM.


#16 Offline Foogoo - Posted November 9 2014 - 11:25 PM

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I grow sphagnum moss, and have never had problems with fungus. Sphagnum moss is supposedly anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.

 

Need pictures! I've got some club moss, lycopodium and others I've gathered I'm growing. Not sure if I've seen healthy, live sphagnum.


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#17 Offline dspdrew - Posted November 10 2014 - 4:05 PM

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gallery_2_161_6199.jpg



#18 Offline Foogoo - Posted November 10 2014 - 7:04 PM

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Thanks, I don't think I've seen live sphagnum before. Are you keeping it as humid as possible? That's what I've been doing and most of my mosses seem happy, except my clubmoss and the lichens.


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#19 Offline dspdrew - Posted November 11 2014 - 5:29 AM

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Yeah, there's a clear top that fits over that tray that keeps it 100 percent humid. To grow the Sphagnum moss I just take a bunch of dead Sphagnum moss and soak it in water for a while. First it will turn real slimy and green in some spots, like you can see in my picture, and then soon it will start sprouting.



#20 Offline Foogoo - Posted November 11 2014 - 6:10 PM

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Yeah, there's a clear top that fits over that tray that keeps it 100 percent humid. To grow the Sphagnum moss I just take a bunch of dead Sphagnum moss and soak it in water for a while. First it will turn real slimy and green in some spots, like you can see in my picture, and then soon it will start sprouting.

 

??? I've never heard of that being possible, due to seeds/spores present in the sphag? About how long before it begins to sprout? I'm going to try this right now!


Edited by Foogoo, November 11 2014 - 6:12 PM.

Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta





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