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Two brothers ACFK-4 and AWFK-4


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#1 Offline antsrussia - Posted May 23 2017 - 8:38 PM

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We're glad to present you two fresh new models of formicariums, ACFK-4 with ytong nest and AWFK-4 with wooden nest
 
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Wall thickness of 3 mm
The walls of the formicarium are made of acrylic 3 mm thickness, this provides rigidity and reliability of the structure.
 
Knots of fastening of walls
Completely new knots of wall bracing between walls provide excellent durability and prevent any gaps between parts.

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Horizontal drinking bowl
As in the ACFK-1 model, the drinking bowl is horizontally placed and made of a test-tube with outside diameter 16 mm and length of 150 mm.
 
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Thermometer-hygrometer
Temperature and humidity level are important indicators for ants keeping and therefore we equipped the formicarium with inbuilt thermometer-hygrometer.
 
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Partitions for gradual settlement
For the gradual settlement of the nest, it has been equipped with three partitions, which divide the nest into 4 sections.
 
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Red film
Red film for dimming the nest is included. The film is fixed in special slits in four points, which ensures its tight fit to the front wall.
 
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Front wall of the nest (sight glass)
As you know, the ants don't like any sort of gaps and constantly try to "calk" them with any garbage. In these models, as in the previous one (ACFK-1), a thin layer of sealant is provided between the nest and the sight glass. Thus, there is no problem of littering the front wall in this model.
It should be noted that the sealant layer is only in the modification with the ytong nest.
 
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Ytong nest with autonomic hydration system
The nest is framed on all sides with acrylic to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture. For autonomic hydration is provided a test-tube with outside diameter 14 mm and a length of 120 mm with a volume of 13 ml.
Nest volume (without outworld): 130 cm3
Nest dimensions: 200 x 120 x 22 mm
Formicarium with ytong nest is suitable for almost all species except Atta / Acromyrmex (leaf-cutter ants) and Oecophylla (weaver ants or green ants).
Maximum number of colony with the average size of individuals and filling 70% of the nest:
- 3 mm: ~ 8000 pcs
- 8 mm: ~ 1000 pcs
- 15 mm: ~ 300 pcs
 
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Wооden nest
A nest is made of beech. 
Nest volume (without outworld): 140 cm3
Nest dimensions: 200 x 120 x 20 mm
Formicarium with a wooden nest is designed to contain ants of the genus Camponotus (carpenter ants).
Maximum number of colony with the average size of individuals and filling 70% of the nest:
- 3 mm: ~ 8000 pcs
- 8 mm: ~ 1000 pcs
- 15 mm: ~ 300 pcs
 
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Big outworld
These models are equipped with a large outworld measuring 260 x 200 x 120 mm.
The cover of the outworld has dimensions 180 x 120 mm and to ensure good ventilation is made with stainless mesh insets.
 
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Overall dimensions of formicarium: 290 х 200 х 120 mm
 

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#2 Offline T.C. - Posted May 23 2017 - 8:51 PM

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Them are beautiful! How does hydration work on the wooden one?

" Whatever You Are, Be a Good One "


#3 Offline antsrussia - Posted May 23 2017 - 9:04 PM

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How does hydration work on the wooden one?

 

Wooden nests aren't hydrated, ants drink water only on outworld.



#4 Offline Flubby100 - Posted May 24 2017 - 12:31 AM

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Beautiful design. Both looks good but I'm concern with the hydration system with the wood design. This seems silly but have you tested this with the Camponotus?

#5 Offline antsrussia - Posted May 24 2017 - 12:53 AM

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Beautiful design. Both looks good but I'm concern with the hydration system with the wood design. This seems silly but have you tested this with the Camponotus?

 

Wooden nest isn't directly moistened. Nest is severely deformed from moisture, so there is a large drinking bowl in the arena and the ants themselves will moisten the nest.



#6 Offline Kevin - Posted May 24 2017 - 2:32 AM

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You need to combat the problem with the nest warping then, because ants basically need the nest itself to be hydrated. I couldn't recommend a nest with no direct hydration to the nest to anyone.

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#7 Offline Flubby100 - Posted May 24 2017 - 4:31 AM

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Beautiful design. Both looks good but I'm concern with the hydration system with the wood design. This seems silly but have you tested this with the Camponotus?

 
Wooden nest isn't directly moistened. Nest is severely deformed from moisture, so there is a large drinking bowl in the arena and the ants themselves will moisten the nest.

I don't know man. Having a drinking bowl in the foraging area does not provide direct hydration to the nesting area. And i don't know about the ants will provide hydration by moistening the nest themselves. And I'm going to ask again if have you tested this theory on any Camponotus on this set up? Just curious.

#8 Offline Spamdy - Posted May 24 2017 - 6:20 AM

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Isn't there a rule where you can't advertise, if I'm wrong can somebody correct me?

All my colonies are dead. 

 

 Except:

  

  Pogonomyrmex barbatus

  Pheidole obscurithorax

  Pheidole morens


#9 Offline Herdo - Posted May 24 2017 - 6:29 AM

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Isn't there a rule where you can't advertise, if I'm wrong can somebody correct me?

 

This was posted to the Marketplace, which unless I'm mistaken exists for the sole purpose of advertising.


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#10 Offline drtrmiller - Posted May 24 2017 - 6:35 AM

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Isn't there a rule where you can't advertise, if I'm wrong can somebody correct me?


You can read the forum rules here: http://www.formicult...12-forum-rules/

Perhaps you have mistaken this forum for some of the vendor-run forums on Facebook and elsewhere, which often have more rules than the US Constitution, and where everything is banned.
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byFormica® is the manufacturer of the iconic nectar feeders and Sunburst Ant Nectar.
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#11 Offline Loops117 - Posted May 24 2017 - 7:07 AM

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Wow, absolutely gorgeous formicaria.



#12 Offline T.C. - Posted May 24 2017 - 7:39 AM

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Beautiful design. Both looks good but I'm concern with the hydration system with the wood design. This seems silly but have you tested this with the Camponotus?

 
Wooden nest isn't directly moistened. Nest is severely deformed from moisture, so there is a large drinking bowl in the arena and the ants themselves will moisten the nest.

Camponotous are a species that require very low humidity, but none at all? I see potential issues with that. Also you would run into the issue of the ants moving into the outworld because in all reality there would be no difference, between that or the nest. In fact, if the water is in the outworld, then it would have a higher humidity level and the ants would move there.

" Whatever You Are, Be a Good One "


#13 Offline Spamdy - Posted May 24 2017 - 8:16 AM

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Isn't there a rule where you can't advertise, if I'm wrong can somebody correct me?



You can read the forum rules here: http://www.formicult...12-forum-rules/
Perhaps you have mistaken this forum for some of the vendor-run forums on Facebook and elsewhere, which often have more rules than the US Constitution, and where everything is banned.
Thanks!

All my colonies are dead. 

 

 Except:

  

  Pogonomyrmex barbatus

  Pheidole obscurithorax

  Pheidole morens


#14 Offline sgheaton - Posted May 24 2017 - 8:43 AM

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With Crazylegs being the Duke of Australia... Pretty sure antsrussia took the crown to become Czar of Russia with these get ups. 


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#15 Offline T.C. - Posted May 24 2017 - 9:10 AM

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Isn't there a rule where you can't advertise, if I'm wrong can somebody correct me?


You can read the forum rules here: http://www.formicult...12-forum-rules/
Perhaps you have mistaken this forum for some of the vendor-run forums on Facebook and elsewhere, which often have more rules than the US Constitution, and where everything is banned.

*cough* ant hill *cough*

" Whatever You Are, Be a Good One "


#16 Offline Barristan - Posted May 24 2017 - 10:05 AM

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I've kept all of my Camponotus species in dry nests so far without any problems. Just try it yourself: Offer a Camponotus colony which lives in a test tube (with water in the tank) a new dry nest and heat it up a little bit. If they move in they won't require a humid nest, if they don't they probably need one. In my experience ants which live in wood in nature don't need a humid nest.



#17 Offline Batspiderfish - Posted May 24 2017 - 10:21 AM

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Nest moisture is a welcome safeguard, but sometimes the average humidity of your location and access to drinking water are plenty for captive colonies. It took me some time to realize that the hydration system for my first DIY nest, housing Lasius umbratus, was a complete failure, but the colony ended up thriving with only drinking water. Summer humidity in Maine is usually above 50% -- most of this week will be around 75%.


If you've enjoyed using my expertise and identifications, please do not create undue ecological risk by releasing your ants. The environment which we keep our pet insects is alien and oftentimes unsanitary, so ensure that wild populations stay safe by giving your ants the best care you can manage for the rest of their lives, as we must do with any other pet.

 

Exotic ants are for those who think that vibrant diversity is something you need to pay money to see. It is illegal to transport live ants across state lines.

 

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Black lives still matter.


#18 Offline BMM - Posted May 24 2017 - 11:23 AM

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I agree with Batspiderfish. I think sometimes people forget about the ambient humidity. My Tapinoma sessile seem quite content with just a supply of drinking water and not other form of hydration.



#19 Offline Kevin - Posted May 24 2017 - 11:32 AM

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Nest moisture is a welcome safeguard, but sometimes the average humidity of your location and access to drinking water are plenty for captive colonies. It took me some time to realize that the hydration system for my first DIY nest, housing Lasius umbratus, was a complete failure, but the colony ended up thriving with only drinking water. Summer humidity in Maine is usually above 50% -- most of this week will be around 75%.

 

While this is true, I believe that direct hydration is a must-have for a colony's health long-term. I know several other manufacturers do similar things, and they "just get by" with a colony, of course assuming that it wasn't a catastrophic failure like the nest you mentioned. Not to specifically name brands but dishes with mesh seal on top claiming to hydrate the nest by "evaporation" alone is simply not going to happen. If you look at it in the big picture, evaporation from a small mesh cannot possibly give the correct gradient or humidity for some species. This wooden nest cannot possibly be suitable for many wood loving species, such as Apheanogaster. Camponotus love dry areas but you must remember they are not the only wood loving species. If the species that need more moisture are attempted to live in this nest, would they prefer the wood or the outworld's with the water dish? 

 

EDIT: Also, how are ants supposed to survive hibernation?


Edited by Kevin, May 24 2017 - 3:05 PM.

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#20 Offline Superant33 - Posted May 24 2017 - 4:15 PM

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My Camponotus colonies have thrived for 13 straight years without hydration. I learned that hydrating the nest caused pupae failure. They would love that wooden nest. Both nests look sleek and awesome like am SU-35!




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