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Ant Keeping Materials


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38 replies to this topic

#21 Offline Alza - Posted September 23 2014 - 4:30 PM

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unlike you i actually have people who don't like heat in my house. Thus we bought air conditioning. its 65 degrees in my house at all times. Heating cables are actually needed. every house near mine comes with an air condition, did yours not ? And if you can't keep your ants away from the outside heat, like when it was 117 degrees then your ants will die off.

 

Also acting smart isn't the right word, maybe being smart ?


Edited by Alza, September 23 2014 - 4:31 PM.


#22 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 23 2014 - 9:28 PM

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Being a smartass without knowing the actual facts of my ants living conditions and my house. :lol:

#23 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 23 2014 - 9:30 PM

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Or is the correct word just "troll"?

#24 Offline DesertAntz - Posted September 23 2014 - 10:33 PM

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JERRY! JERRY! JERRY! 

 

You two are like mountain goats.  :warning:


The good man is the friend of all living things. - Gandhi 


#25 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 23 2014 - 10:40 PM

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:/ It bugs me when he HAS to make a correction even if his point is wrong, irrelevant, or he knows nothing of the subject. 



#26 Offline dspdrew - Posted September 24 2014 - 6:06 AM

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unlike you i actually have people who dont like heat in my house. Thus we bought air conditioning. its 65 degrees in my house at all times. Heating cables are actually needed. every house near mine comes with an air condition, did yours not ? And if you cant keep your ants away from the outside heat, like when it was 117 degrees then your ants will die off.

 

Also acting smart isnt the right word, maybe being smart ?

You keep your house at 65 degrees?!? That's colder than data centers and server rooms are kept at. That would take some serious electricity usage. Not all houses or apartments have air conditioners.



#27 Offline Crystals - Posted September 24 2014 - 6:10 AM

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65F = 18C.

The basement in our house is always that cold, but I do live in northern Canada and it was designed that way to reduce heating bills.

 

Our server rooms sit around 14C (57F).


"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astound the rest." -- Samuel Clemens

 

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#28 Offline dspdrew - Posted September 24 2014 - 6:34 AM

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Wow, that's pretty cold. The average is about 67F or so.



#29 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 24 2014 - 9:00 AM

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Yeesh that's cold, I have an AC in my house, just nowhere near where I keep my ants.

#30 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 25 2014 - 7:05 PM

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Q-Tips for handling brood!!! I always use q-tips to move brood around, it doesn't crush those delicate little guys.



#31 Offline DesertAntz - Posted September 25 2014 - 8:23 PM

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Q-Tips for handling brood!!! I always use q-tips to move brood around, it doesn't crush those delicate little guys.

Do you dampen the ends at all or just leave them dry? 


The good man is the friend of all living things. - Gandhi 


#32 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 25 2014 - 8:30 PM

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Dry, you do not want them to stick to it.



#33 Offline Crystals - Posted September 26 2014 - 6:28 AM

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I use featherweight forceps, or toothpicks for smaller brood.  I could never get the brood off of the Q-tip unless I trimmed it a lot.


"Always do right. This will gratify some people, and astound the rest." -- Samuel Clemens

 

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#34 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted September 26 2014 - 7:26 AM

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I do not thing I have lots of problems...  :thinking:



#35 Offline dspdrew - Posted September 26 2014 - 9:49 AM

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Yeah, like Crystal said, toothpicks would be good. I use a barbeque skewer. The reason why wood works well, is because the water soaks in and makes it damp. On plastic or metal, it would just bead up and then wipe off and dry too quick. Anything soft or fuzzy would be a problem because really tiny brood will end up getting stuck in it, and you would have a hard time seeing them, or getting them out without doing damage. I twist the skewer in the opposite direction that it would roll for the direction I am swiping in; this keeps pushing the brood out from underneath it as you swipe, so they don't end up smashed. When placing them into the new tube, I just reverse the movements. I can move the tiniest eggs very quickly this way without smashing any of them.



#36 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 28 2014 - 2:55 PM

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16 x 150 Millimeter Test Tubes are the standard size of test tube that I use.



#37 Offline AntsAreUs - Posted November 28 2014 - 3:03 PM

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1. test tubes that are not too big

2. some sort of protein, can easily be found at pet store (mealworm, superworms, fruit flies, crickets, ect.)

3. waxpaper and scissors for clean feeding inside test tubes

4. plastic containers if you plan on keeping larger colonies, might want to get fluon (insect-a-slip)

5. a dropper with some sugary liquid

6. cotton for the test tube setup

7. optional: tin foil to cover the test tubes for darkness (makes them feel safer in the beginning)

8. carefulness! but don't overcare them (don't feed them too much enless they have an outworld) and don't give them too much nest space



#38 Offline AntsAreUs - Posted November 28 2014 - 3:07 PM

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Optional for max care:

 

1. a nest (if you can't make a nest you can put a bunch of test tubes in a conainer)

2. naturalness (substrate in the nest/ outworld, or if you don't really care about watching them just have a container of soil for them to dig in)

3. colored glass/plastic or a colored mat over the glass/plastic

4. liquid feeders

5. breeding your feeders for really large colonies (which I do)



#39 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted November 28 2014 - 4:31 PM

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3. colored glass/plastic or a colored mat over the glass/plastic

It specifically needs to be red.






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