12 replies to this topic

[anttics]

So most of us live in California. With mostly desert ants. We need to come up with a how to for a bio active desert terraium. With decomlisers who can live with ant colonies.

I got the basics.

-DIRT: Get it from a desert, or species habitat.

-PLANTS: cactus, add more if possible

-HEAT: heat lamp.

-HYDRATION: Water every?. How much per square inch?

-DESERT DECOMPOSER: Clean up crew who will eat dead insects, mold, fungi. And who could survive inside the nest of a colony. And outside when watered. All i could think off spring tales.

If you can add some knowledge

[DaveJay]

Firstly, learn how to set up a basic false bottom system. This allows you to add water to the bottom of the substrate and leave the surface mostly dry. A vertical moisture gradient will be established, mimicking arid conditions, desert animals (and plants too) will burrow to find moisture, the deeper they dig the wetter and cooler it is. They will find their own preferred moisture levels simply by adjusting the depth of their burrows and chambers, as will plants via their roots. This avoids you having to worry about getting moisture levels right, nothing will die due to low moisture, nothing will rot or develop mycosis due to high moisture levels. As in nature, because the water is added below the surface the humidity/moisture levels under rocks, wood, leaf litter etc is higher than that of the surface whereas if water were only added from above the rocks etc would serve to block it, it would actually be drier under a rock. Humidity above ground is adjusted via ventilation, not adding more water. You can create a horizontal moisture gradient too by spraying one end or having a water bowl/pool at one end, that gives the organisms the maximum choice of what moisture level it needs at any given time, they can go across, down or both and always be under the optimum conditions, particularly where a heat gradient is established too.
In any case, I know little about the Californian desert, but that's how I keep Australian species.

Edit - I realised this doesn't quite make sense "As in nature, because the water is added below the surface the humidity/moisture levels under rocks, wood, leaf litter etc is higher than that of the surface whereas if water were only added from above...". I'm referring to the fact that in a desert/arid area water does not stay on the surface long, it quickly makes it's way through the sandy surface layer to be trapped in the subsoil layers. Capillary action draws it back up again as the surface moisture is evaporated. This action provides moisture between the rains, which are usually far apart in arid environments.

Edited by DaveJay, November 19 2018 - 11:12 PM.

[GeorgeK]

I too, myself have no clue about californian desert species, but when it comes to moisture gradient, it can be done simply by making gravel bottom and rest being sand. The real question would be: How deep should the substrate be? My guess is that in the desert top 10-20-30cm would be quite hardened/dry, while ants would nest at at least 50cm depth? that's just my thought, you would need deep formicarium

[DaveJay]

A false bottom can be constructed in a few ways, and can mean different things for different applications. Just a layer of gravel without any means of adding water is just a drainage layer really.
Simple instructions suitable for animal enclosures and vivariums -
Cut a length of pipe/tube longer than the desired depth of substrate, it can be the full height of the enclosure or even taller. Cut the bottom end at an angle or cut a "V" into it so that water can easily flow out. Stand this pipe/tube in a corner.
Add a layer of gravel about an inch thick, it can be more but an inch is about the minimum. The gravel allows water to flow across the bottom before being absorbed into the other layers.
A layer of screen on top of the gravel is optional, but it does provide a better base for firming the substrate and minimises the amount of clogging in the gravel layer.
Then add moist coco peat, firming it as it is added, this layer should also be about an inch thick, maybe a little less.
On top of the firmed peat layer add your substrate, firming it as you go. I usually add about an inch or two, compress that as much as possible then add more in stages until the maximum height is reached.
The depth of the substrate depends on the enclosure being used, but the deeper it is the better the gradient will be, it's hard to establish a good gradient in a shallow substrate. The animals will burrow to where the moisture level in the substrate is right for them regardless of the depth but if it's too shallow the gradient is too compressed and they have less choice.
To compress substrate, sand in particular, it needs to be more moist than will be desirable, in fact wetting the surface heavily will cause it to set as it dries making it much firmer.
At first no water should be added via the tube and the surface needs to dry to start creating a gradient. When the surface is dry and you can start to see a the colour of the substrate graduate from darkest at the bottom to lightest at the top a small amount of water can be added via the pipe. Only add enough that it flows from the tube end to the dry end wetting the bottom glass. Once established I go by the colour of the peat layer for desert set ups, once that goes a lighter colour because it's starting to dry out it's time to add more water.
How it works - water is added via the tube, this flows across the entire bottom wetting the bottom of the gravel. The water flows up the surface of the gravel because of adhesive tension and is absorbed by the peat layer. The peat layer is the reservoir not the gravel layer. Moisture evaporates from the top portion of the substrate which draws moisture from the peat into the bottom portions of the substrate, a "flow" is established as is a horizontal moisture gradient. Water is usually only added to the surface to simulate morning dew, not to moisten the substrate, the moisture in the substrate is regulated by adding water via the tube.
This is imo the best way to keep many desert animals from scorpions to lizards, there is little to no risk of mycosis using this method as the surface is too dry for mould and fungus to proliferate.

Just having a layer of gravel does not give these advantages or provide a suitable moisture gradient, the substrate must be saturated before any moisture even reaches the gravel, in most cases it will give a reverse gradient with the top of the substrate having more moisture than the bottom.

The substrate layer can be too shallow, but it can never be too deep, the animals will only burrow to the depth where the moisture levels are right for them, they can move up and down to regulate their own desired moisture levels. Straight coco peat deposited on the surface indicates that not enough water is being added to keep up with evaporation.

The mistakes commonly made are not waiting long enough for the substrate to dry before adding water to the bottom and adding too much water at a time. It's best to add a measured small amount and then decide if more is needed the next day, the gravel does not need to be kept wet in an arid set up, the peat just needs to be kept moist.

[anttics]

Brilliant davejay. I have a nother theory for the bottom. Let me know what you think.
-vinyl tube to pour water into the bottom
-I will use broken firebrick for the bottom. It retains moisture very well.
-will cover it with sand.
-will figure out some type of net ot better yet use coco peit. On top of the thin sand layer.
-then put digging medium for the ants.

Would this work. Or do you see anyndraw backs. The only one i see. It will be more humid than your set up. The gravel will not allow massive amount of water to flow up into the medium. While the fire bricks will.

So far the hydration bottom for a natural desert set up seems to.be solve. With Davejay bottom.

[anttics]

The other issue is a cleaning crew of insects that could live side by side with ants. I think heating is simple. A lamp, and a heat mat will work. Any more ideas and strategies are welcome.

[GeorgeK]

The other issue is a cleaning crew of insects that could live side by side with ants. I think heating is simple. A lamp, and a heat mat will work. Any more ideas and strategies are welcome.

Exactly why would that be an issue? I noticed none of my colonies cared about springtails, they could only serve as snack at best. Its even documented that many ants in wild live with certain mites

[DaveJay]

Brilliant davejay. I have a nother theory for the bottom. Let me know what you think.
-vinyl tube to pour water into the bottom
-I will use broken firebrick for the bottom. It retains moisture very well.
-will cover it with sand.
-will figure out some type of net ot better yet use coco peit. On top of the thin sand layer.
-then put digging medium for the ants.

Would this work. Or do you see anyndraw backs. The only one i see. It will be more humid than your set up. The gravel will not allow massive amount of water to flow up into the medium. While the fire bricks will.

So far the hydration bottom for a natural desert set up seems to.be solve. With Davejay bottom.

That would work too, although sand in between the chunks of firebrick would obstruct the flow of water, and fine particles always work their way to the bottom of any mix eventually, vibrate some mixed nuts and you'll see (and get to eat the good nuts and leave the peanuts for others lol!). The pieces closest to the tube would be wet while the other end will be dry, it's better if the water can flow across the entire bottom before being absorbed. That said, that method will give you a horizontal moisture gradient from one end to the other as well as a vertical one from top to bottom. I have done this before by only putting gravel at one end and sand at the other.
When I first started experimenting with false bottoms I used granite gravel because I know it's inert, then I started using scoria (scoria looks like a volcanic rock, full of holes and bubbles, think aero chocolate, but it's a by product of smelting so it is also inert) because it is so much lighter and like firebrick holds water to a certain degree. It took me a couple of years to work out that the gravel layer does not need to be kept wet, all that's needed is for the peat to be moist in an arid set up, different with a mesic or rainforest set up though.
The substrate need not necessarily be just sand, it can be a mix depending on the environment you're replicating.
I've experimented with varying the substrate mix from top to bottom too, with the lower layers having more peat mixed with the sand adjusting the mix until the top is just straight sand. This works and is probably more natural but it is much harder to see where your "damp line" is. In small 4x4x10" enclosures I've thought more water was needed and actually flooded the enclosure, I've also thought it was damp when it was dry at the bottom because it's darker at the bottom just because of the substrate mix. That was for scorpions and centipedes that need more moisture though. I worked out it's better if the substrate is all the same mix because it's much easier to judge moisture content by eye.
Now with desert species I know that if the peat is dark and you see condensation on the glass in the gravel layer the moisture level is fine, only when the gravel starts to look dry do I add a shot glass of water to a 16" tank.
I've been experimenting with false bottoms for a few years now, burrowing scorpions are good learning tools, adjusting their burrows and their positions in the burrows very readily in response to the moisture levels in the substrate so for desert species I'm pretty confident that I've got it nailed now. Ants aren't scorpions of course but the habitat you're trying to replicate is the same.
I've had people in bio-active groups say that the clean up crews like springtails, mites and isopods need more moisture and won't survive in these set ups but it's not true, just like the other inhabitants they too burrow or hide under debris and find the moisture levels they need, just don't collect rain forest species for the tank, collect arid species from under rocks and debris in an arid environment.
All of my inverts, reptiles and even frogs are in false bottom systems, around 50 enclosures and I absolutely swear by them. The only exception now is the ants but I'm still using the same principle and adding water to the bottom of their substrate one way or the other, I just don't have a gravel layer. Drews' dirt boxes use the same principle too btw, we are not in uncharted territory here.
I'm still waiting to move house but once I do one of my first projects will be a four foot ant enclosure mimicking Mallee "desert" conditions so I'm really eager to see yours come together and see the results of any tweeks you make!

[Trogolodytes]

I’d look into species of isopods that are tolerant of at least semi-dry conditions. The standard roly poly Ardmadillidium vulgare is probably the most common and cheap one I can think of.

Plants are easy, tussock grasses and cacti/succulents will work.

Clay dirt would be a good choice as substrate. Water the bottom layers and let it dry out tosplidify it so it holds its shape for nest chambers better, you’d probably want it more moist at the bottom.

I think everything else has already been said.

[anttics]

I’d look into species of isopods that are tolerant of at least semi-dry conditions. The standard roly poly Ardmadillidium vulgare is probably the most common and cheap one I can think of.

Plants are easy, tussock grasses and cacti/succulents will work.

Clay dirt would be a good choice as substrate. Water the bottom layers and let it dry out tosplidify it so it holds its shape for nest chambers better, you’d probably want it more moist at the bottom.

I think everything else has already been said.

I agree. My plan is to make a small habitat for the springtales. Where the ants won't be able to go in. I hope they place their trash site next to them. so they have easy access. I will also place the colonies protein. Close to the springtales. Its all coming toguether. I will post pictures of my built so other keepers have an idea for a bio active desert terrarium.

[Trogolodytes]

I’d look into species of isopods that are tolerant of at least semi-dry conditions. The standard roly poly Ardmadillidium vulgare is probably the most common and cheap one I can think of.
Plants are easy, tussock grasses and cacti/succulents will work.
Clay dirt would be a good choice as substrate. Water the bottom layers and let it dry out tosplidify it so it holds its shape for nest chambers better, you’d probably want it more moist at the bottom.
I think everything else has already been said.

I agree. My plan is to make a small habitat for the springtales. Where the ants won't be able to go in. I hope they place their trash site next to them. so they have easy access. I will also place the colonies protein. Close to the springtales. Its all coming toguether. I will post pictures of my built so other keepers have an idea for a bio active desert terrarium.

I’m not sure how springtails will survive, they do require moisture. Will love to see pics when it starts taking shape

[Rstheant]

You could also use booklice, but sprintails are better.

[anttics]

I think my idea will work. Here is a poorly drawn graphic of my terrarium.



It will have 4 or more blocks depending on terrarium size.

Spring tales will live inside the bowl. With broken carbon. The bowl will be cover with dirt. Only the dome, and tiny entrances will show above. only springtales will to go inside or out of the bowl. I will be also pass a vinyl tube to keep.it hydrated. They will be able to venture out into the outworld. Once I spray the surface once every few days. I hope they are able to find their way into the moist k23.blocks. and whoala. A bio active desert terrarium. With cleaning crew habitat.

Edited by anttics, December 3 2018 - 10:58 AM.